grub vs. grub

California is full of rare sightings we don't see around Chicago, cheeseburgers included. Chains like In-N-Out, Jack In The Box, and Carl's Jr. are ubiquitous throughout the Golden State, tempting would-be diners at virtually every expressway off-ramp with their supposedly unique approaches to ground beef. But do these burger joints really deserve the hype that their popularity suggests? Greasefreak chowed down at multiple locations hoping to discover their individual merits. The results produced more similarities than differences.

In-And-Out TASTE: PRESENTATION: AMBIENCE: Perhaps the most ballyhooed fast food sandwich on the planet, In-And-Out's signature burger features a patty that is never frozen, made to order, and virtually tasteless. What sets the sandwich apart is a stunning presentation that reveals a smorgasboard of fresh ingredients and special sauce that makes for a decent dining experience for only a couple bucks. The generally spotlesss atmosphere, open layout of the stores, and enthusiasm of employees ain't too bad either.

Jack In The Box TASTE: PRESENTATION: AMBIENCE: Common around Chicago in the 1970s, Jack in the Box's attractive Jumbo Jack burger remains its de rigueur menu item. Like its competitors, the patty is almost tasteless save for the trimmings and special sauce. The ambience is comensurately bland, the chain having dumped the endearing images of its namesake clown years ago. Instead, Jack In The Box stores are characterized by groovy earthtones that seem more depressing than upscale, which makes the nearly $5 burger price that more unstomachable.

Carl's Jr. TASTE: PRESENTATION: AMBIENCE: Carl's Jr.'s Famous Star burger shares In-And-Out's clever presentation, as well as a hint of beef flavor in a patty that provides more texture than taste. The flavor overwhelmingly consists of salad ingredients, cheap cheese, and special sauce. On the plus side, the burger is less than three bucks, so at least you get what you pay for.